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Friday, May 17, 2013

Haaretz Daily- From Oasis to Oasis


5/16/13

         It’s hard to believe that we’ve crossed the midway point of the 2013 Israel Trip. It’s hard to believe but it’s true!
         I’m writing to you now from Kfar HaNokdim, a serene Bedouin oasis in the heart of the Judean desert. We arrived here late in the afternoon and immediately hoped on some camels for a sunset ride. The camel ride came with all the usual fanfare—shouts of joy from the kids and other, less admirable sounds from the camels. Take a moment to picture the ideal place and circumstances under which to ride a camel (some of you may struggle with this). That’s where we are right now.
         Prior to arriving at the Bedouin tent we spent a few hours at a very different kind of oasis—Sachne. Sachne is large natural spring at the foot of the Gilboa Mountains. The water is crystal clear and always the perfect temperature. There are waterfalls and palm trees as well as little fish that nibble at your toes whenever you’re not swimming. Some people believe that Sachne was part of the Garden of Eden—it’s that kind of place. Imagine the most beautiful water you’ve ever experienced. Now imagine it pounding on your back as it cascades from a waterfall while dozens of fish give you a pedicure. Admit it men—sounds like an ideal spa day, no? As good as Sachne felt physically it felt even better spiritually and emotionally. We all felt at one with nature, content to be exactly where we were, and appreciative for the gift of the cool water and the beautiful surroundings. Maui ain’t got nothing on Sachne.
         Driving through the desert changes your mood. Your mind wanders, but it wanders in a way that leads you to consider matters of ultimate concern and great personal importance. As we passed the Dead Sea and Masada the power of the changing landscape wasn’t lost on those of us who were awake. I’m fairly certain that the dreamers were taking it in as well.
         Bedouin culture is at least 7,000 years old. At the heart of Bedouin culture is an unflinching commitment to hospitality. Our host, Mohammad, shared aspects of Bedouin culture with us. During the Q&A he shared that his brother hosted a homeless elderly Jew from a neighboring city in his home for over a year without ever asking a question about the man’s intentions or future plans. Mohammad also has three wives and 19 children (the oldest of which is 15 years old). It sounds like the premise of a mathematical word problem that even Levi D. might need a few minutes to solve! (I say that because Mora Orna did some math riddles with our kids and he got every one of them right instantly).
         Given their commitment to hospitality you might have surmised that Bedouin dinners are more like feasts than they are a trip to Moe’s. We sat on the floor and were presented with large round platters containing all sorts of different delicacies. At the end we ate sweets and drank even sweeter tea, which the kids love. Bedouin tea is to Southern US Sweet Tea what Coca Cola is to Pepsi. The good news is that your kids won’t want to drink sweet tea anymore because it won’t be as sweet as it was at the Bedouin tent!
         I’m sitting at a wooden table overlooking a large Bedouin tent. All the kids are in there along with the chaperones, getting ready for bed (slowly). It’s the one time on our trip when we’re truly appreciative to have a mechitzah (division between men and women). We had a campfire tonight with more rousing renditions of “Seek Peace” and “Kol Yisrael.” Eventually we’ll share our traditional Bedouin tent bedtime story and fall asleep under the same stars and sky. In the meantime kids are trampling all over Mr. O’Dell’s stuff so I’m going to go help him out!

Layla Tov,

Rabbi Micah